Learning to eat at Chan's Thai Kitchen in Juneau is something of an art.

But it's worth mastering. Thai food connoisseurs around the North consider this place one of the best, and I'd have to agree.

In fairness to readers, I have to offer this caveat. The first time I ate at Chan's, my companion -- to whom I am ever indebted for the introduction to the place -- ordered halibut red curry, turned out in a heaping pile as tall as the bowl was deep ($14.95). Ever since, I haven't been able to stray from that same dish, and in fact, I crave it when away from Juneau. If they ever cancel the selection, I'm likely to have withdrawals.

The curry isn't bland and isn't hot, but a milky-smooth delight with a hint of sweetness. Huge chunks of halibut battle for space among fresh vegetables -- cabbage and bamboo shoots, thick wedges of zucchini, slivers of carrot and tender broccoli flowers offering a touch of color. The vegetables are never over-done, never soggy and limp or old. The halibut flakes with a touch of the chopsticks, bursting with flavor.

The bowl I ordered as research for this review was so good, in fact, that I started in right away and forgot to snap the requisite photograph. By the time I remembered, the food was half-gone.

But I digress.

Chan's is a hole-in-the-wall tucked into a strip mall across from picturesque Auke Bay. Without big, bold neon signs marking the joint, you'll have to watch for lines of people snaking out the door, winter or summer. If you're lucky enough to snag a window booth, the view is enchanting with summer's late light. If not, you'll be crammed in along with Chan's other guests, many clad in XtraTuf boots, Carhartts and Mountain Hardware down coats -- a typical Southeast crowd.

There's little to be said for the décor, which isn't much more than silk flowers and some Thai odds and ends tucked on among old wood-paneled walls framing a drop ceiling, but it doesn't matter.

The food is that good.

The waits are long and the rules are plentiful: No reservations. No take-out during dinner hour. No complaining about long waits as food is refined from fresh ingredients in a hot, bustling kitchen. The place is closed tight on Mondays, and stops serving promptly at 8:30 p.m. -- no exceptions. Master those challenges, and Chan's will fast become a favorite.

Signs taped to walls here and there go like this:

"Chan's Thai Kitchen tries very hard to serve you as soon as possible. However, the dishes here at Chan's often take longer to make than at other places. It is our belief that any changes that would make preparation times shorter would lessen the quality of the food. Long waits are often the norm. This is especially true of lunch and dinner hour. If you are in a hurry, it might be best to try another time."

Who could complain? Not me.

But seriously, settling in for a wait -- which really isn't that long -- affords a rare opportunity to slow down, sip a perfect Thai iced coffee ($2.75, minus the cream, please), and catch up with friends.