Humming along in France's high-speed TGV
Scott McMurren |
Jun 08, 2010
But in Europe, they take pride in their quick trains. We recently rode the TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) from the south of France up to Paris. Whether you're a train lover, a plane lover, or just feel the need for speed, theTGV offers a fresh perspective on point-to-point travel. France is not the only country with a high-speed rail network (Japan, China, Spain and several other European countries have them as well), but the French take pride in their TGVs -- and it shows.
Photos: Scott McMurren
The TGV arriving at Avignon ... Woah there, rocket-train
Travelers from the U.S. should consider a rail pass from Rail Europe. You can choose a week-long pass, a single-country pass or a number of variations--depending on your plans. We had French passes that permitted four days of travel within one month ($286). If you have a pass and you're traveling on the TGV, you have to purchase a seat reservation for an additional $10-$15 each way. In many communities, the French national railroad (SNCF) built brand-new stations to accommodate the TGV. That's logical since the high-speed trains often run on their own tracks, which must be built and maintained to exacting
The TGV station at Avignon. It's completely separate from the regular "Gare Central" at which we arrived from Lyon.
Both of the TGV terminals we visited in Lyon and Avignon were large, elegant, glass-enclosed terminals. The passenger flows from the parking areas to the check-in kiosks to the tracks were well-designed and orderly. Overhead, there were numerous displays indicating at which track the next train would arrive. In fact, with your seat reservation, you can tell which "bay" you can stand at to be in the right position to board the train once it arrives. Between Avignon and Paris, we rode a "full duplex" or double-decker train. We sat up on the top deck. Unlike airline cabins, there's barely room to put your coat up above in the bins. Rather, there are two roomy baggage areas in the middle of each car, in addition to bag stowage at either end of each car. The seats are roomy and comfortable. There is a sturdy tray table for a laptop or book. While cell service was available throughout our two-and-a-half hour ride, the protocol in the car was for you to go stand in the common areas between the cars to talk on the phone. Only those travelers with a 3G connection were able to get mobile internet. Each seat had power outlets so you could charge up your phone, laptop, or both. There was a club car on board, but it was nothing special. We got a $7 bread-and-cheese sandwich that was wholly unremarkable. The espresso was very good, though. Once we pulled out of the Avignon station and made the long curve across the Rhone River, the train started to pick up speed. I'm not sure if we hit the 187 mile-per-hour mark, but we were passing cars on the highway like they were standing still. All the while, the environment on the train was almost serene.
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