I crave Juneau pizza.

Fresh off a ferry on a four-month stay for the legislative session, the warmth of Juneau's pizza places beckons. Any one will do -- the brick-oven Island Pub (with mojitos even in the dead of winter) in Douglas or the faintly European-style Pizzeria Roma, with the occasional takeout greasy pepperoni from Bullwinkle's classic parlor.

The one I keep coming back to -- more regularly than I should admit -- is Pizzeria Roma, partly for its downtown convenience, partly for the consistently outstanding food and service.

Tucked into the ramshackle blue Merchant's Wharf building waterside, the gem is warm and inviting, cluttered with downstairs tables often filled by families and friends. Upstairs, a few tables offer a more intimate experience, secluded from the chaos and made cozy with the radiant heat of pizza ovens working overtime.

The décor isn't polished or fancy, but gives a faint European flavor that's echoed in the menu. Tables are masked by plastic cloths of wine bottles and clusters of grapes, green and red, while real wine bottles are on display. Instead of ceramic dishes, plates are paper, tucked into those basketweave wicker shells like my mother used to make us use. They don't sit quite steady, but somehow they add to a funky ambiance that I always find just the thing. A wraparound wall mural of Juneau's waterfront, complete with a float plane landing on the waters sitting just outside, brings thoughts of summer.

My habit is salad, pizza and wine, but the appetizers warrant mention. There's caprese, with a trio of salamis and cheeses ($6.25); oysters on the half shell, baked in pine nut butter ($12.95); and steamer clams ($11.95), all gestures to Juneau's waterfront, seafaring ways.

As for salad, out of a couple of options, the Roma salad ($8) is my favorite, but a word of warning -- it's huge. Even the half order ($4.75) is plenty for two to share. Fresh baby greens come loaded with mushrooms, onion, fresh garlic, red peppers, artichokes and Greek olives, crowned with crumbled feta and sprinkled with a balsamic vinaigrette.

Pizza is always tough to pick -- especially here. Favorites exist, nonetheless. The Roma Garden ($20.95 for a 15" pie, $10.75 for a 9" wonder) has a thin crust painted with pesto. Layered on top are spinach, roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, onions and olives, with a dusting of feta and mozzarella.

The Jamaican Bacon is also masterful ($21.45 for a 15", $9.50 for a 9"). A jerk-spiced red sauce is smoothed over that same thin crust, followed by light mozzarella and pepperjack cheese and chicken. Chunks of crispy, salty bacon complement sweet, juicy pineapple, with bits of red onion adding a slight bite. Bliss.

The staff is great, offering prompt, solid service without being a bother. They're well-versed in the newest wines on hand, and they're fun without being overwhelming. Best of all, the waiter one evening didn't gape at my exclamations of delight at finding the chef would, indeed, craft a cheeseless pizza.